Bougatsa is a classical Greek pastry that uses layers of phyllo dough to hold both sweet and savory fillings. It has a lot in common with baklava, however the filling between the layers tends to be thicker with a higher filling-to-phyllo ratio.

The more common sweet version of bougatsa found in Athens typically has a semolina-based custard. The top is usually dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon. You usually find it served as a morning pastry or a dessert.

Savory versions of bougatsa are typically filled with some type of cheese or minced meat. Sometimes the top is garnished with chopped herbs, and it is usually served as a snack or an appetizer.

One could argue that no Athens food tour is complete without a stop at one of the following eateries. Each has a reputation for making some of the best bougatsa in the city.

Ta Serbetia Stou Psyrri

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Photo credit: Ta Serbetia Stou Psyrri

Ta Serbetia Stou Psyrri is one of Athens’ beloved dessert spots known for great bougatsa baklava, galaktoboureko, and kataifi. It’s nestled in the historic Psyrri neighborhood which is just a short walk from Monastiraki Square. Making it a great place for a quick breakfast, or a snack on a walking tour of attractions like the Acropolis, or the Ancient Agora.

The decor in Ta Serbetia Stou Psyrri is charming, with traditional Greek elements that give it a little bit of a retro vibe. Yet it’s still cozy enough that you feel it’s inviting you to sit down to enjoy a bougatsa, or one of their other desserts while you sip on some coffee. The outdoor seating area is great for people-watching.  

I think the bougatsa at Ta Serbetia Stou Psyrri strikes a perfect balance between the layers of crispy phyllo dough and the creamy custard filling. The custard itself manages to be rich without being overly sweet.  

Ta Serbetia stou Psyrri (€4 to €5) – 105 54, Eschilou 3, Athina 105 54, Greece – Open every day from 10:00 AM to 12:30 AM.  

Krinos

You’ll find the historic pastry shop Krinos on Aiolou Street, within a stone’s throw of Athens’ bustling Monastiraki and Omonia Square. Its central location makes it a popular place with locals and tourists who are hungry for bougatsa and other sweet Greek delicacies.

From the moment you set foot, Krinos you feel like you’re being transported back in time to its founding in 1923. Every square inch of it has a vintage old-world charm with classical Greek décor and towering high ceilings.

With over a century of practice, Krinos has perfected bougatsa and other classical Greek pastries like baklava and loukoumades. I personally love the creaminess of the semolina custard they use in their sweet bougatsa. They dust the top so generously, which also makes it my go-to place for bougatsa when I need to satisfy my sweet tooth.

Krinos (€2.50 to €3.50) – Aiolou 87, Athina 105 51, Greece – Open Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday from 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM. Open Tuesday, Thursday and Friday from 8:30 AM to 8:30 PM. Closed on Sunday.

Zoubourlou

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Photo credit: Zoubourlou

If you’re looking for a great bougatsa, but you also want a little peaceful break from the Athenian hustle and bustle, you need to check out Zoubourlou. It’s nestled in the charming Kato Petralona neighborhood of Athens which offers a laid-back vibe.

The décor inside Zoubourlou is relaxed, and contemporary with simple clean lines. There’s also a great outdoor seating area that lets you sit back and enjoy the day. I think it’s the place to be for a comfortable, slow-paced breakfast when you need a break.

The thing I like the most about the bougatsa at Zoubourlou is just how light, and flaky the phyllo dough is. The semolina custard filling isn’t overly sweet and not too rich, which I think makes it a great breakfast pastry, brunch, or midday snack when I already have a large meal planned for later in the day.

They also offer a savory version of Bougatsa with feta and other Greek cheeses. This cheese pie version often incorporates a little olive oil and other Mediterranean flavors. It isn’t always available in the morning and is more of a midday or evening snack. I like to get it to go and eat it like street food on a leisurely walk.

Zoubourlou (€3 to €4) – Eschilou 4, Athina 105 54, Greece – Open every day from 8:30 AM to 1:30 AM.

Kostas

Kostas is one of Athen’s more charming bakeries serving multiple forms of sweet and savory bougatsa. You can find it not far from the historic Monastiraki Square, which makes it a great place to pick up a snack while touring the historic parts of Athens.

The décor and ambiance at Kostas exude traditional Greek charm. The kitchen has a largely open area, which makes it easy for you to see the various pastries they sell.

While Kostas is well-known for their souvlaki, and sweet bougatsa with a flaky phyllo crust filled and a rich creamy custard filling, I prefer their various savory takes. Their minced meat savory bougatsa is one of the best you’ll find in the city.

However, I love the freshness and lightness of their feta and spinach bougatsa. It’s my go-to eatery in the spring when the spinach is fresh, and you can taste the earthy terroir of the Greek countryside in every bite.

Kostas (€3 to €4) – Pl. Agias Irinis 2, Athina 105 60, Greece – Open Monday to Friday from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Closed on Saturday and Sunday.   

Conclusion

Most international foodies will tell you that no Athens food tour is complete without sampling bougatsa a few times. In truth, there are many great options throughout Greece, and Athens in particular.  

If you’re looking for something sweet, I think the best bougatsa can be found at Krinos or Ta Serbetia Stou Psyrri. If you’re looking for a savory bougatsa with cheese or minced meat, I recommend Kostas or Zoubourlou.

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