Milan, Bergamo, Brescia – Exploring the Cuisine of Lombardy

Lombardy is in Northern Italy, in the foothills of the Alps. The influence of this slightly colder climate makes the cuisine of major cities like Milan, Bergamo, and Brescia much heartier than you’ll find in other parts of Italy.

So, when you include Lombardy restaurants as part of a Milan food tour, you can expect to find stick-to-your-ribs meals at every level. Not to mention a vibrant aperitivo culture that uses artisanal cocktails to help slow you down from the often frenetic pace of life.

What Makes Lombard Cuisine Unique

In Lombardy cuisine, butter is more common than olive oil and while pasta is still present, rice and polenta are the more dominant starches. Yet this is just the tip of the culinary iceberg when it comes to the emblematic dishes of cities like Milan, Bergamo, and Brescia.

The alpine meadows of Lombardy are ideal for raising cattle. This means that you’ll find beef, veal dishes, and dairy-based sauces in abundance. Not to mention cheeses with ancient ties, whose flavor profile can change based on the altitude the cows were grazing at.

So, while you might be able to replicate iconic dishes like Risotto alla Milanese, Spiedo Bresciano, and Casoncelli alla Bergamasca elsewhere, they won’t have the same hearty terroir as the originals made in Lombardy.

Key Ingredients in Lombard Cooking

Lombard cuisine starts with making the most out of what the surrounding land gives them. This starts with beef, and veal from the cattle living in the surrounding alpine meadows.

The abundance of dairy cows also translates into the copious use of butter, and ghee over olive oil. When you also consider the mountain microclimates, Lombardy becomes a hot bed for artisanal cheeses like gorgonzola, taleggio, and grana Padano. Just to name a few.

These same microclimates and the abundance of grass-fed livestock also tend to be ideal for curing artisanal meats. At any moment, you might stumble across a charcuterie board festooned with meats like Bresaola della Valtellina, Coppa Lombarda, Pancetta Lombarda, and Prosciutto di Montagna.

Rice tends to grow better in Lombardy than wheat, which translates into a lot more rice-based dishes like risotto. However, Milan, Bergamo, and Brescia all have their own signature pasta dishes to try.

Signature Dishes You Must Try

Milan, Bergamo, and Brescia each have signature must-try dishes, and delicacies that highlight what’s best in Lombard cuisine.

Risotto alla Milanese

This is a classic risotto that is elevated by saffron, giving it a golden hue and delicate aroma. In Milan, you might find it served on its own or alongside ossobuco.

Ossobuco alla Milanese

Braised veal shanks cooked until they’re fall-off-the-bone tender. Served with in-season vegetables, and herbs, topped with gremolata.

Cotoletta alla Milanese

A breaded and fried veal cutlet, typically bone-in, reminiscent of Wiener schnitzel but thicker and juicier. The best versions are pan fried in ghee, as the higher smoke point creates a crispier crust.

Casoncelli alla Bergamasca

A staple of Bergamo, it’s a crescent-shaped pasta filled with meat, breadcrumbs, and cheese, served in a sauce of browned butter, pancetta, and sage.

Polenta Taragna

A hearty version of classic polenta, that’s often enriched with melted local cheeses like Taleggio or Bitto. Sometimes it’s thickened with wheat flour to create a starch base to go with a meat dish.

Spiedo Bresciano

This is one of the beloved meat dishes of Brescia. It’s essentially skewers of slow-roasted meats such as pork, chicken, and wild game, that’s basted with butter and herbs. When grilled over an open flame, it reminds me of kabobs or chislic. However, in Brescia, they often serve the skewered meat with polenta, which soaks up a little of the natural juices.

Bigoli con le Sardelle

A thick spaghetti-like pasta you find most often in Brecia. It’s often served with a sauce of sardines or anchovies, which gives it a little bit of a Southern Italian feel.

Manzo all’Olio

The start of this Brescia dish is braised beef cooked in a rich olive oil sauce that gives it an almost Tuscan feel. It’s usually accompanied by polenta or mashed potatoes.

Where to Experience Authentic Lombard Cuisine

The easiest place to experience Lombard cuisine is by visiting one of the many restaurants in Milan, Bergamo, and Brescia. However, there are also local festivals that celebrate seasonal ingredients and the local food culture.

Sagra del Bitto – Festival

Sagra del Bitto is dedicated to Bitto cheese and highlights the craftsmanship of local cheesemakers. I think it’s the perfect opportunity to taste this celebrated aged cheese at entry-level prices.

Festa del Torrone – Festival

Held every November, Festa del Torrone is a tribute to Cremona’s iconic torrone nougat. There are all kinds of cooking demonstrations, historical reenactments, parades, and markets to let you sample authentic Lombard ingredients.

Sagra della Polenta Taragna – Festival

Held in Storo, Bergamo in October, this polenta festival focuses on Lombardy’s beloved Polenta Taragna. It’s a local specialty that’s enriched with cheese and butter, giving it a smooth and hearty texture. The festival is festooned with tastings, and cooking demonstrations, as well as pairings with locally sourced meats and wines.

Trattoria Madonnina

Photo credit: Trattoria Madonnina

This historic trattoria is one of Milan’s beloved culinary landmarks. Their menu features authentic Milanese dishes like ossobuco, cassoeula, and Risotto alla Milanese saffron risotto. The nostalgic décor, featuring vintage memorabilia, enhances the traditional ambiance making you feel transported back in time to a bygone era of Lombardy.

Trattoria Madonnina (€20-€40) – Via Gentilino, 6, 20136 Milano MI, Italy – Open every day for lunch from 12:00 to 3:00 PM, with dinner from 7:00 PM to 12:00 AM.

Trattoria Parietti

Nestled on the city’s upper hill in Bergamo, this charming restaurant offers an authentic taste of Lombard specialties, like casoncelli and polenta taragna. The dining room has a warm and inviting ambiance. They focus the menu selections on preserving traditional flavors with locally sourced ingredients. 

Trattoria Parietti (€20-€30) – Via Costantino Beltrami, 52, 24129 Bergamo BG, Italy – Open Wednesday to Monday for lunch from 12:00 PM to 2:00 PM, 7–10 PM.

Trattoria Gambero

Photo credit: Trattoria Gambero

Located in the heart of Brescia, Trattoria Gambero’s menu specializes in local dishes such as manzo all’olio and Brescia-style risotto. They offer an intimate setting and dishes made from fresh, regional ingredients that represent authentic Lombard cuisine. The staff also have a reputation for being friendly, which I found very helpful when exploring their menu for the first time.

Trattoria Gambero (€20-€30) – Vicolo del Vento, 8, 25026 Pontevico BS, Italy – Open Wednesday to Sunday for lunch from 12:00 PM to 2:30 PM with dinner from 7:30 PM to 10:30 PM. Monday open from 12:00 PM to 2:30 PM. Closed Tuesday. 

Sources:

Eating Europe. (n.d.). Milan food tours. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.eatingeurope.com/milan/

La Madonnina Milano. (n.d.). Home [Facebook page]. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.facebook.com/lamadonninamilano/

Trattoria Parietti. (n.d.). Homepage. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://trattoriaparietti.it/

Osteria Il Gambero. (n.d.). Homepage. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from http://osteriailgambero.it/