Seasonal Eating in Milan – Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter

The cuisine throughout Italy and in major cities like Milan always factors in seasonality. This is tied to the traditional foodways of using what the land gives you, as well as the seasonal rotation of popular traditional dishes.

When you go on a Milan food tour, in summer you will inevitably see different foods like strawberries, ripe peppers, and tomatoes. Whereas restaurants in the winter will have heartier classics like risotto and ossobuco to fill your belly and stave off the alpine chill in the air.

To help you determine the best time of year for your next visit, I thought I’d take a closer look at what seasonal eating means in Milan.

Why Seasonal Eating Matters in Milan

The people of Milan embrace seasonal eating to enjoy the freshest flavors and health benefits provided by high-quality in-season produce. The Lombardy sense of community also means supporting local farmers and communities with seasonal festivals to celebrate the best of each harvest.

Of course, restaurants and the master chefs who carefully craft their menus also embrace seasonality. They don’t just want you to be blown away by the flavors of a perfectly ripe tomato or a sumptuous bite of risotto enriched with melted fontina cheese. They want you to bask in a truly authentic culinary experience that you can’t get anywhere else.

Seasonal Ingredients and Dishes by Season

Milan is nestled in the foothills of the Alps, which means it experiences four distinct seasons. While it is an international city, with ingredients being shipped in from abroad, the best seasonal ingredients are produced or sourced locally based on the time of year. 

Winter: Warm Comfort Foods and Root Vegetables

Winter in Milan means hearty dishes like cassoeula, risotto all Milanese, and Carciofi alla Romana. All of which are made from classical winter ingredients like artichokes, chicory, and winter squash.

Cassoeula is a traditional braised pork dish that feels a little bit like French cassoulet. Yet has a Milanese distinctness. The pork is rich and incredibly tender, which is counterpointed by the fresh bite of the stewed cabbage.

I think the best restaurant for Cassoeula in Milan is Trattoria Masuelli San Marco. They’ve spent over a century mastering the classic recipe with locally sourced Milanese ingredients.

Risotto alla Milanese is a classic short-grain rice risotto made with rich Lombard butter and then infused with glowing saffron powder. In the winter, it’s sometimes enhanced by mushrooms, or enriched with local cheese.

In the wintertime, my favorite restaurant in Milan for risotto alla Milanese is Osteria alla Grande. They have a cozy ambiance that makes it feel like you’re sitting at home enjoying a warm risotto amongst friends and family.

Carciofi alla Romana is an important dish from Rome that’s become a traditional winter dish in Milan. It’s made from gently braised artichokes with garlic, parsley, and olive oil. Sometimes it’s eaten as a starter or as a side dish to other hearty winter classics.

My go-to restaurant for Carciofi alla Romana in the winter is Felice a Testaccio. They specialize in classic Roman dishes done right, while also accenting Milanese culinary traditions.

Spring: Fresh Greens and Herbs

In spring the alpine fields and farms surrounding Milan come to life with asparagus, peas, and wild greens that embody the region’s terroir. These ingredients inspire classic Milanese dishes like risotto agli asparagi and frittata.

Risotto Agli Asparagi starts with a base of saffron-infused risotto alla Milanese which is then enhanced by fresh asparagus from the alpine meadows.

I think the restaurant that does it best is Al Garghet, which is at the fringes of the city surrounded by pastoral fields. They do an amazing job of celebrating fresh spring asparagus, accented by the use of grass-fed butter.

Frittata in Milan is essentially an egg-based pie that’s thinner than a quiche, yet thicker and simultaneously fluffier than a French omelet. The Milanese then accent it with stunningly fresh alpine asparagus, delicate spring spinach, fresh herbs, and other primavera ingredients.

I think Trattoria Mirta in Milan’s Berea district does an impeccable job of elevating frittata. They often feature it as a special, making use of fresh-cut wild greens, spring herbs, and vegetables that make the flavors of spring the star of the dish.

Summer: Juicy Fruits and Light Fare

Summer in Italy is always a culinary delight, and few places show off the bounty of summer better than Milan. This starts with seasonal ingredients like tomatoes, zucchini, fresh summer herbs, and even peaches! All of which play a part in dishes like insalata di pomodori, and caprese.

Insalata di Pomodori is an artisanal Italian tomato salad that you see a lot in Milan during the peak of summer. On the surface, it’s a simple yet vibrant dish featuring fresh, ripe tomatoes, with fresh summer ingredients like onions, basil, and olive oil. Many Milanese chefs will also add mozzarella or burrata cheese to give it body.

I think they do it best at Antica Trattoria della Pesa, which is a classical Milanese restaurant steeped in tradition. Throughout the season they select only the best ingredients, including fresh, aromatic baby basil, that perfectly matches the sweetness of the salad’s heirloom tomatoes.  

Caprese salad is a traditional southern Italian salad that’s incredibly popular in Milan. It’s made with fresh mozzarella, ripe tomatoes, and fragrant basil, before being dressed with a drizzle of olive oil. Many Milanese chefs will enhance their caprese with high-quality balsamic vinegar or seasonings.

I’m particularly fond of the caprese at Erba Brusca, as their entire menu focuses on fresh, in-season locally sourced ingredients. If possible, I try to reserve a table in their outdoor seating area, where the ultra-fresh carpet and the fresh air embody everything that’s great about summer in Milan.

Fall: Mushrooms, Chestnuts, and Hearty Fare

Being poised at the foothills of the Alps, Milan makes fall cuisine as hearty as it is flavorful. Many of their dishes like risotto ai funghi and ossobuco tap into locally sourced ingredients like porcini mushrooms, roasted chestnuts, and pumpkins.

Risotto ai funghi is a classic autumnal dish in Milan that uses a base of saffron-infused risotto alla Milanese, enhanced with locally sourced porcini mushrooms. Some fine-dining restaurants will even garnish the plate with truffles which also grow wild in the region.

I think Solferino is one of the best restaurants in Milan for risotto ai funghi. They’ve been in business since 1909, and their menu has perfected the use of locally sourced ingredients, including hearty porcini mushrooms, and other Lombardy specialties.  

Lepre in Salmì features wild hares cooked in a rich sauce of red wine, herbs, and aromatic vegetables. It’s a classic example of Milanese and Northern Italian autumn cuisine that celebrates the abundant wild game meat of the hunting season.

My favorite place for lepre in salmi in Milan is Trattoria Milanese. They have a closer relationship with local producers to source the best wild hares and their wine list is impeccable.

Top Farmers’ Markets in Milan for Seasonal Produce

Milan has a reputation for embracing local ingredients and supports production by hosting a staggering array of farmers markets like the Porta Romana, Mercato della Terra, and the Navigli Farmers’ Market. Just to name a few.

Porta Romana Farmers’ Market is the largest in Milan. It’s held on Fridays and Saturdays, where you can find everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to artisanal cheeses, meats, and even fresh fish. If you’re new to Milanese ingredients, I think this is a great place to get an authentic taste of the city.

Torchiera Farmhouse Market is set in a 14th-century farmhouse which adds to the ambiance. The market is open every Monday from 1 PM to 6 PM and specializes in organic produce and vegan-friendly products.

Mercato della Terra is a slow foods market held every Saturday morning at the Fabbrica del Vapore. They typically feature organic products from local farms, including meat, dairy, and honey. This is one of my go-to places for exploring seasonal artisanal cheeses.

Tips for Embracing Seasonal Eating in Milan

I think that embracing seasonal eating in Milan starts with visiting one of the local farmer’s markets, or seasonal pop-up restaurants. You can sample what’s in-season, to get a quick feel for what to expect from Italian food in the best restaurants in Milan.

The larger markets are also a great place to rub elbows with the locals. They can give you great recommendations for restaurants that specialize in seasonal Milanese cuisine. You might even run into a few chefs who can steer you in the right direction.

Sources:

Eating Europe. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.eatingeurope.com/milan/

Masuelli Trattoria. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.masuellitrattoria.com/

Osteria Alla Grande. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from http://www.osteriaallagrande.com/

Felice a Testaccio. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://feliceatestaccio.com/

Al Garghet. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://algarghet.it/

Trattoria Mirta. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.trattoriamirta.it/

Antica Trattoria della Pesa. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from http://www.anticatrattoriadellapesa.com/

Il Solferino. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.ilsolferino.com/

Trattoria Milanese. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.facebook.com/TrattoriaMilanese1933

Eating Europe. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.eatingeurope.com/guides/best-food-in-italy/