If there’s one thing I’ve learned from my food tours in Porto, it’s that some of the best meals aren’t found in the city center but just across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia. That’s exactly the case with Mercearia do Bernardino, a grocery store turned restaurant where tradition, good food, and friendly faces come together in the best way possible.
I didn’t just eat here, I experienced it. Sitting at one of the simple tables, sipping on a glass of Vinho Verde, and chatting with the owners about how the city has changed over the years made me feel like I had stepped into a different time. And the food? Exactly what you’d want from a place like this—honest, simple, and full of flavor.
The Location and First Impressions
Mercearia do Bernardino is right across the river from Porto, in Vila Nova de Gaia. It’s in an area that most tourists don’t take the time to explore, but they really should. From here, the views of Porto’s historic center are some of the best in town, especially if you’re lucky enough to grab a seat outside.
Walking In: A Step Back in Time
The moment you walk in, it’s clear that this place isn’t just about food—it’s about tradition. The front of the shop is lined with local cheeses, cured meats, wines, and other Portuguese staples, while the back is where the magic happens: a small café-style space where you can sit down and actually taste the ingredients from the shop.
The vibe is unpretentious and relaxed—there’s no fancy décor, just the kind of cozy, welcoming atmosphere that makes you want to stay a little longer. It’s the kind of place where you could end up talking to the owners for an hour without realizing how much time has passed.
The Food: What to Eat and Why You’ll Love It
The Signature Dish: Rissois
If you try one thing, make it the rissois. These crispy, golden pastries come filled with everything from beef to sardines, and they’re the perfect mix of crunchy and creamy. They pair perfectly with a glass of chilled green wine, which is exactly what I did.
More Dishes You Shouldn’t Miss
- Tomato Rice – Simple, rich, and comforting. I could eat this every day.
- Cheese and Sausage Boards – Featuring goat’s cheese, cured meats, and even varieties with chili peppers or pink peppercorns, this is ideal for sharing.
- Quiches, Pies, and Salads – Made fresh every day with ingredients straight from the grocery shelves.
- Bernardino Toast – A standout, loaded with Terceira Island cheese and national ham, packed with flavor.
For Dessert: The Sweet Finish
If you have a sweet tooth, don’t skip dessert. There’s usually a selection of homemade cakes, including:
- Quindim (a rich egg and coconut tart)
- Toucinho-do-Céu (a dense, almond-based cake)
- Bolo Mágico (a cinnamon cake inspired by a Brazilian soap opera)
On some days, there’s cheesecake or chocolate mousse, so it’s worth asking what’s available.
Quality and Taste: As Good As It Gets
I can’t overstate how fresh and flavorful everything was. You can tell that the ingredients are top quality, after all, they’re the same ones sold in the grocery store.
The flavors are bold but balanced, nothing is overly complicated, and everything tastes like it was made with care. I’ve been to enough places to know that consistency is rare, but after hearing regulars rave about it, I’m convinced that this is the kind of place where every visit is just as good as the last.
The Service: Friendly, Genuine, and Unhurried
What made this experience special was the people. The owners clearly love what they do, and they make sure you feel welcome from the moment you step inside.
Pricing: More Than Fair for What You Get
For the quality of the food and the experience, the prices are more than reasonable. Expect to spend €10–€20 per person for a full meal, including drinks, or even less if you just want a snack and a glass of wine.
Compared to the more touristy restaurants across the river in Porto, prices are excellent. The portions are generous, and everything on the menu feels like it’s worth more than what you’re paying.
When to Visit: Timing It Right
If you want the best experience, try to visit:
- Lunchtime (12:00 PM – 2:30 PM) – The freshest selection of dishes.
- Late afternoon – A quieter time to sit back with a drink and a snack.
- Weekdays – Less crowded than weekends.
Seasonal specialties sometimes pop up, so it’s always worth checking what’s new.
Why You Should Go
Mercearia do Bernardino isn’t just another restaurant, it’s a piece of local history. It’s the kind of place that connects you to the past while serving up flavors that never go out of style.
Final Thoughts: Who Should Go?
Would I recommend it? Without a doubt.This place is perfect for anyone looking for something local. If you’re in Porto, take a short trip across the river. You won’t regret it.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Can I make reservations at the restaurant?
It’s usually first-come, first-served, so plan accordingly.
Is there a vegetarian or vegan menu available?
There are some vegetarian options like quiches, salads, and cheese boards, but vegan options are limited. Ask the staff—they’re happy to help.
At the end of my visit, I found myself already planning to come back. Some places are just special, and Mercearia do Bernardino is one of them.
Sources:
Eating Europe. (n.d.). Porto prices: Food and drink. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.eatingeurope.com/blog/porto-prices-food-and-drink/
Eating Europe. (n.d.). Porto. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.eatingeurope.com/porto/
Facebook. (n.d.). Mercearia do Bernardino. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.facebook.com/merceariadobernardino/?locale=pt_PT