Ossobucco is a classic Milanese dish made from tender, braised veal shank. The surrounding alpine meadows of Lombardy are home to millions of cattle which gives ossobuco in Milan a profound umami and terroir.
One could argue that no Milan food tour is complete without trying ossobuco at one or two of the city’s many restaurants. So, I thought I’d tuck into some important details, and a few recommendations on the best restaurants for ossobuco in Milan.
What is Ossobuco? The Heart of Milanese Cuisine
Ossobuco loosely translates from Italian as “bone with a hole.” It’s a classic Milanese dish with historical roots in the 19th century. At that time it was a humble, hearty meal prepared by local cooks who were making the most of the beef shanks they had available after butchering a steer.
As Milan rose with opulence in the 20th century, ossobuco evolved into a more sophisticated dish using veal shanks braised in a flavorful broth of white wine, vegetables, and herbs. This slowing cooking process rendered the marrow within the bone adding to the richness of the dish. The remaining marrow is sometimes thought of as the “jewel” of ossobuco.
Most Milanese chefs will dress or garnish ossobuco with gremolata. It’s made from parsley, garlic, and lemon or orange zest to provide a bright counterpoint that cuts the richness of the dish.
Ossobuco is traditionally served over a flavorful starch such as saffron-infused risotto alla Milanese or hearty polenta. However, seasonal root vegetables and wilted greens also aren’t uncommon.
Top Restaurants for Ossobuco in Milan
Ossobuco is so common in Milan that you can find it at nearly every level. Fine-dining restaurants and simple trattorias all have their own takes on traditional and elevated ossobuco.
Al Garghet
Photo credit: Al Garghet
Al Garghet is one of Milan’s hidden gems for ossobuco, and quality dining with an agricultural vibe. It’s located in the outskirts of Milan, surrounded by fields and Oratorio di San Matteo.
The verdant green fields surrounding Al Garhet give it a charming old-world ambiance that transports you back in time to what Milan was like a century ago. I love the outdoor seating area for al fresco dining in nice weather.
Al Garghet’s menu focuses on classic Milanese cuisine with osso buco, cotoletta breaded veal cutlets, and saffron-infused risotto Milanese. One of the things I love about the ossobuco here is the way they serve it with sides based on the seasons. Especially in spring when asparagus is fresh and the ossobuco is served over a bed of risotto agli asparagi.
Al Garghet (€€€) – Via Selvanesco, 36, 20141 Milano MI, Italy – Open Tuesday to Friday from 7:00 PM to 12:00 AM. Open Saturday and Sunday for lunch from 12:00 PM to 4:00 PM with dinner service from 7:00 PM to 12:00 AM.
Trattoria Milanese
Photo credit: Trattoria Milanese
Trattoria Milanese in Milan’s Brera district offers a classical ossobuco that’s beloved by locals and tourists alike. It’s the perfect place to get a taste while exploring nearby attractions like the Sforza Castle, Pinacoteca di Brera, or the towering Duomo di Milano.
The atmosphere at Trattoria Milanese exudes classical Italian warmth with rustic décor and vintage elements. The robust wooden tables even have classic, red-checkered tablecloths with old-world charm.
Trattoria Milanese’s menu focuses on traditional dishes, like ossobuco, risotto alla Milanese and cotoletta alla Milanese. I find the gremolata they garnish the ossobuco with to be particularly bright, and they give you just the right amount to let you taste a little down to the last rich bite.
Trattoria Milanese (€€) – Via Santa Marta, 11, 20123 Milano MI, Italy – Open Monday to Saturday for lunch from 12:00 PM to 2:30 PM, with dinner from 7:00 PM to 10:30 PM.
Ratanà
Photo credit: Ratanà
You’ll find Ratanà nestled in Milan’s vibrant Porta Nuova district near popular architectural attractions like the Bosco Verticale and the Piazza Gae Aulenti. Their ossobuco is particularly rich, to match their historic fine-dining experience.
Ratanà is built into a historic building, which gives it rustic charm with an ambiance of fine-dining elegance. The dining room’s exposed wooden beams and vintage decor perfectly complement the natural light streaming through the large windows.
The menu at Ratanà largely focuses on traditional Milanese and Lombardy dishes, then gives them subtle, elevated twists. I appreciate how they use locally sourced seasonal ingredients to create dishes like risotto alla Milanese, and ossobuco.
In summer you can taste the grass-fed notes from the cattle raised in Lombard meadows. A true testament to sourcing locally rose, grass-fed, and pasture-raised veal, like you can only find in Lombardy.
Ratanà (€€€) – Via Gaetano de Castillia, 28, 20124 Milano MI, Italy – Open every day for lunch from 12:00 PM to 2:30 PM, with dinner from 7:00 PM to 11:00 PM.
Tips for Enjoying Ossobuco in Milan
If you want to enjoy an authentic ossobuco experience in Milan, I think you need to enjoy it at multiple levels. Start with a humble eatery like Al Garghet, where it can be paired with seasonal vegetables or sides like polenta. Then also try it at a fine-dining restaurant like Ratanà where it’s elevated and paired with great wine.
You should also note that the best restaurants in Milan for ossobuco also tend to require reservations. Ossobuco also tends to be better suited for dinner rather than lunch. If possible, try to secure a reservation at a restaurant that also has a bar or lounge.
Then you can enjoy an aperitivo experience before dining to stimulate your appetite. Restaurants with their own bar tend to have an expansive wine list to easily pair ossobuco with your preferred wine.
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Sources:
Eating Europe. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.eatingeurope.com/milan/
Al Garghet. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://algarghet.it/
Trattoria Milanese. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.facebook.com/TrattoriaMilanese1933
Ratanà. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.ratana.it/