Pane e panelle is a quintessential Sicilian street food that in its traditional form also happens to be vegetarian. These crispy fritters are made from chickpea flour, water, and a pinch of salt, then fried until golden, capturing the heart and soul of Palermo’s vibrant culinary scene.
Celebrated for being as affordable as they are satisfying, pane e panelle has been a staple for tourists and locals alike. So, it only makes sense to plan a stop or two to try them as part of a Palermo food tour.
The Cultural and Historical Significance of Panelle
Pane e panelle’s historical roots in Palermo can be traced back to the Arab rule of Sicily from the 9th to 11th century. This is when chickpeas were introduced to the island, along with the technique of grinding them into flour to create simple yet nourishing dishes. Over time, the recipe for panelle evolved into the crispy fritters that have become synonymous with Sicilian street food.
In bustling markets, such as Ballarò and Vucciria, pane e panelle holds a special place as a beloved snack that transcends generations. Vendors expertly fry the chickpea batter and offer them free to order. Letting you literally taste Palermo’s deep culinary past, alive and well in the 21st century.
Where to Find the Best Panelle in Palermo
Palermo has tons of great markets, street food vendors, and local friggitorie where panelle are served. I recommend trying some of the following to get an authentic taste of what these golden chickpea fritters are and what they can be.
Mercato di Ballarò is a Palermo hotspot for street food lovers. Here, you’ll find several stalls frying up fresh panelle, served hot and crispy. Look for vendors with a steady crowd of locals. This is a strong sign of the kind of authentic, consistent quality that earns repeat business. Try to stay away from stalls rife with lines of tourists, which tend to be popups trying to turn a fast profit.
Mercato del Capo is another bustling market in Palermo known for its incredible variety of Sicilian street food. Panelle here is often sold alongside other fried treats like potato croquettes and arancini, making it the perfect place to get a quick taste of Sicilian cuisine.
Photo credit: Nino ‘u Ballerino
Nino ‘u Ballerino is a legendary street food vendor famous for his dramatic preparation style and expertly made panelle. The chickpea fritters here are light, flavorful, and consistently excellent.
Photo credit: Nni Franco U Vastiddaru
Nni Franco U Vastiddaru near Palermo’s Piazza Marina, is renowned for its perfectly golden panelle. The fritters are crisp on the outside and creamy on the inside, with just the right balance of salt. Then perfectly garnished with lemon and parsley fresh to order.
Photo credit: Passami ù Coppu
Passami ù Coppu is a chain of cafes offering elevated Sicilian street food. These trendy spots serve panelle in stylish paper cones. The fritters are golden and crispy, offering a modern take on a classic dish while staying true to traditional flavors.
Photo credit: Basile Focacceria del Massimo
Basile Focacceria del Massimo serves some of the best panelle in Palermo. They’re typically fried to order, ensuring a warm, crispy bite every time. I also appreciate that they have an outdoor seating area that’s dog-friendly.
Cooking Techniques: Frying vs. Baking Panelle
Deep frying is the traditional and most common method for making pane e panelle. It creates a golden, crispy exterior while keeping the interior soft, moist and flavorful. This commonly calls for using a neutral oil, such as sunflower or peanut oil. These oils can maintain a consistent temperature of 350–375°F needed to create a perfectly crisp exterior without absorbing excess oil.
In recent years baking pane e panelle has become an increasingly popular, healthy option, which is lighter without sacrificing too much on taste. You simply brush a little olive oil on each right before baking at 400°F until they turn golden and slightly crispy.
Serving Suggestions: Traditional and Modern Ways to Enjoy Panelle
The easiest way to enjoy pane e panelle is as a sandwich, where warm, crispy chickpea fritters are tucked into a sesame-seed roll. It can then be garnished with a bright squeeze of lemon or a sprinkle of salt and aromatic parsley. Some Palermo street food vendors elevate the experience by adding slices of fried eggplant or other classic vegetables. Not only does this create a heartier, more indulgent street food, but it also gives you the option of trying a few creative spins on what pane e panelle can be as a sandwich.
Traditionally, pane e panelle is enjoyed as a quick snack or light meal, especially in the bustling markets of Palermo, where its simplicity shines. However, trying it at a food market offers the option of pairing it with other street foods to create a hearty lunch with the full-bodied traditional flavors of Sicily.
Modern adaptations have brought 21st creative culinary twists to this Sicilian staple. Pane e panelle can be served as sliders, paired with fresh greens, tomato, or spicy aioli for a contemporary touch. It also lends itself well to fusion ideas, such as crumbled panelle in salads or wraps for added texture and flavor.
One increasingly popular gourmet approach is to shape pane e panelle into delicate canapés topped with ricotta or smoked salmon. However, some of these versions can take the vegetarian appeal away from the dish.
Sources
Eating Europe. (n.d.). Palermo. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.eatingeurope.com/palermo/
Instagram. (n.d.). Palermo Mercato di Ballarò. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/600818300296692/palermo-mercato-di-ballaro/
Instagram. (n.d.). Mercato del Capo Palermo. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/257908266/mercato-del-capo-palermo/?hl=en
Nino U’ Ballerino. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://ninouballerinopalermo.it/
Facebook. (n.d.). Nni Franco U’ Vastiddaru. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.facebook.com/pages/nni-franco-u-vastiddaru/167508093275642?_rdr
Passami u Coppu Street Food. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.passamiucoppustreetfood.it/
Facebook. (n.d.). Trattoria Basile. Retrieved December 5, 2024, from https://www.facebook.com/TrattoriaBasile/
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